(4)Day Four: Fjällbacka, Blueberries, and Verandas – Swedish Adventures with a Norwegian Twist

This day started with a beautiful sunny morning, and we enjoyed breakfast on the veranda again. Of course, the lawnmower was hard at work in the garden, tirelessly moving back and forth. By the way, in Sweden, almost every garden has one of these robotic mowers, and since security is high in rural areas, nobody seems interested in stealing them. In Hungary, this lawnmower wouldn’t be around for long in the yard.

We managed to set off a bit after 10 am, partially because at many Swedish accommodations, guests have to clean up after themselves. Bed linens and towels aren’t usually provided, and if they are, there's an extra charge, or you bring your own. We generally leave places clean, so a bit of extra tidying was fine. But sometimes I really don’t understand why Swedes are so adamant about this, especially when Norwegians aren’t. :) (If you know, comment and let me know!)

The next stop was Fjällbacka, a charming little fishing village famous for the rocky Kungsklyftan gorge, which is made up of massive granite boulders. This spot became famous in the 1980s when the movie Ronja, the Robber’s Daughter was filmed here, based on Astrid Lindgren’s iconic novel. The film’s rocky scenery came to life in this location, and it truly was a magical sight. Fun fact: a Netflix series adaptation of the film was just released this year (2024).

From the top of the Kungsklyftan gorge, there are breathtaking views of the landscape, and it's filled with beautiful plants, especially heather and the occasional blueberry. We also found a pine forest brimming with tiny “baby” blueberries and lingonberries – we could have stayed there all day, it was so charming.

Fjällbacka was also the favorite summer retreat of actress Ingrid Bergman. The town’s coast, dotted with small islands, along with its stunning natural surroundings, add to its charm and tranquility.

On the way back to the car, we stopped by the local Coop. The Swedish Coop is quite professional, unlike in Hungary, where I like to call it the “worker’s store.” The Scandinavians have successfully kept the German chains in check. In this Coop, I found an even better spiced seed mix than the Danish one and grabbed some bananas, which is worth mentioning because in many places here (especially in rural areas), they only sell organic bananas by default.

We hadn’t left enough time to fully explore the Bohuslän region – you could easily spend several days here – so we continued on towards Norway. Oslo was next on the itinerary, specifically to visit the Folk Museum on the Bygdøy Peninsula. Right next to it is the Viking Ship Museum, but that was closed for renovations, so we missed it this time. When we arrived in Oslo, it was already after 3 pm, so there wasn’t much point in visiting the museum. I let it go easily since Oslo isn’t too far by plane, and we can come back whenever we want.

After a little break, we arrived in Fagernes around 7:30 pm, a small town on the shores of Strondafjord. We had a burger at a place called Foodzilla, which we ate romantically while sitting by the water. The burger was served in a whole grain bun, and the mildly spicy seasoning was just right.

The road to our accommodation was a winding dirt track, crossing several small waterfalls. The journey there was already stunning, but the view from the accommodation was simply breathtaking. The place was super cozy, full of beautiful flowers and, guess what? Yes, a veranda!

The veranda offered a view of the fjord – I couldn’t believe we’d be waking up in such a beautiful spot. The only oddity was the Swedish composting toilet, but hey, it’s an experience. You can get used to it, and at least we tried it!

More About Fjällbacka:

Located on Sweden's west coast in the Bohuslän region, Fjällbacka is one of the most picturesque fishing villages in the country. The town center is made up of colorful, traditional Swedish wooden houses lining narrow streets. The town’s harbor is a popular tourist attraction, especially in summer when it fills with sailboats and ships. Ingrid Bergman spent her summers here, and the surrounding islands and landscape add to the village’s charm. The town is part of the Kosterhavet National Park, offering beautiful coastal walks and a chance to explore local flora and fauna.

Fjällbacka is also the hometown of bestselling crime novelist Camilla Läckberg, and many of her novels are set in this scenic location, bringing the town international attention.

Ronja, the Robber’s Daughter:

Originally a famous Swedish children's novel written by Astrid Lindgren, Ronja, the Robber’s Daughter was published in 1981 and has since become a beloved classic in Swedish literature. Like many of Lindgren’s works, this book weaves a magical story for both children and adults, filled with adventure, fantasy, and important life lessons.

Set in medieval Scandinavia, it follows the life of Ronja, the daughter of a robber chieftain named Mattis. She grows up in an old fortress deep in the woods, which was split in two by a lightning strike the night she was born. On one side live Mattis and his robbers, while the other side becomes home to the Borka clan, sworn enemies of the Mattis family.

As a young girl, Ronja explores the beauty and dangers of the wild. She befriends Birk, the son of Borka, and despite their families’ rivalry, the two form a close bond that soon becomes a sibling-like connection.

The central theme of the book is the conflict between friendship and family loyalty. Ronja and Birk’s friendship shows that moral truth and the heart can rise above social and familial expectations. Lindgren often portrays nature as both wonderful and terrifying, and Ronja’s coming of age is deeply tied to learning responsibility, independence, and standing up for her own values. She’s a strong, brave, and independent girl, a rarity for female protagonists at the time of the book’s release.

This story has inspired generations and remains popular worldwide. Lindgren's unique fantasy world and deep characters make it timeless.

Norsk Folkemuseum (Norwegian Folk Museum):

The Oslo Folk Museum is an open-air museum located in Norway’s capital, Oslo. It’s one of the largest and most significant open-air museums in Europe, showcasing Norwegian folk culture, traditions, and architecture.

The museum’s biggest attraction is its open-air exhibit, which includes over 150 original buildings from various regions of Norway. These buildings showcase rural life in Norway across different eras. The most famous building is the Gol Stave Church, dating back to the 13th century, one of the best-preserved stave churches in Norway. The museum aims to display not only Norwegian architecture but also everyday life. Visitors can often enjoy traditional craft demonstrations, folk dance performances, and other cultural programs that give insight into old Norwegian customs and trades.

The museum’s indoor section features permanent and temporary exhibits displaying objects from different periods of Norwegian history, such as clothing, furniture, and everyday items. One of the most interesting parts is the 20th-century urban quarter, where visitors can get a glimpse into life in Oslo and other Norwegian cities during the modernization era.

The museum is especially popular among tourists as it offers a unique way to explore Norway’s history, culture, and traditions. The open-air exhibits allow you to walk among authentic Norwegian buildings, providing a truly unique experience.