(19)Day Nineteen: A Day in Gamla Uppsala – Burial Mounds, Legends, and Historical Discoveries

When we arrived in Gamla Uppsala that day, I felt like we were on a magical time-travel journey. The sun was shining, and it was quite warm compared to previous days, so I made sure to stay well-hydrated with water. We headed toward the famous burial mounds, which were an impressive sight at first glance. I thought that was all there was to see, but we continued exploring when we saw a hiking trail that promised more surprises.

(In this post, you'll find the photo album not at the bottom but placed in the middle, as there is quite a lot of text, and I want to give you a better overview. :)

Soon, we reached a fenced area, another burial mound called Tunåsen. When we climbed to the top of the hill, we saw the highest point of Gamla Uppsala—a small viewpoint. Although the view wasn't breathtaking, the atmosphere of the place and the history surrounding us were captivating. 😊

Tunåsen is not only a site of historical significance but also a natural wonder. The 30-meter-high ridge is part of Uppsalaåsen, one of the longest ridges in Sweden. The area was shaped by the ice and sea that once flowed here, and the surrounding clay plains suggest an ancient seabed.

The dry meadows' rich flora tells of grazing traditions that date back thousands of years. Rare plants like campion, thyme, and heather dress the landscape in magical colors. The native plant and insect species here are particularly valuable due to their rarity, having evolved over millennia on this ancient land.

Tunåsen's history includes its role as a military facility during World War II, where bunkers, defense trenches, and anti-aircraft towers were built. Most of these military traces have now disappeared, and the area has regained its natural beauty. In the 1950s, Tunåsen's ski slope served as the only high-speed descent in Uppsala, where military personnel and students skied. The boundary stones from that time can still be found today.

Continuing along the hiking trail, we saw the artificial basins used to purify the drinking water of the Fyrisån River and the famous Linné hiking trail. Walking this path, one can witness the intersection of natural beauty and history—it was enchanting.

After that, we visited the church and the cemetery around it. Unlike Hungarian cemeteries, watering cans and gardening tools are located in one place here so that every visitor can conveniently tend to the graves without worrying about someone taking them away.

The larger church here was built in the 12th century and originally served as a cathedral. It is made of massive stone and bears the characteristics of medieval Christian architecture. The church's interior features elements of great historical and religious significance, including medieval frescoes and artworks, as well as an altar that is a hallmark of Scandinavian Christian art.

Next to the church stands a tiny red wooden church, the Gamla Uppsala Wooden Church. Although this current building is a reconstruction of the original church, it still serves as a great example of medieval ecclesiastical architecture and Scandinavian wooden churches. The wooden church is painted with traditional Swedish "Falu Rödfärg" paint, which not only looks beautiful but also serves to protect the building.

Together, these two churches represent significant historical value, preserving the memory of the meeting between Christianity and the pagan past.

Unfortunately, we had to skip the Gamla Uppsala Museum, as we also wanted to visit the city of Uppsala. At least this leaves something exciting for the next visit! :)

Upon arriving in Uppsala, we struggled a bit to find a parking spot, but we eventually figured it out. :) When we reached the cathedral, we were completely mesmerized by the enormous building. I had never seen such a huge cathedral before, and the atmosphere inside was unique. I’m neither religious nor a fan of churches, but I must say that this place was magical.

We quietly walked through the vast space until we reached Gustav Vasa's tomb. Gustav Vasa, one of the most significant figures in Swedish history, rests here along with two of his wives. His tomb is one of the cathedral's most striking artworks: a black marble sarcophagus surrounded by ornate carvings and gilded elements. The tomb depicts life-sized figures of Gustav Vasa and his wives, awaiting eternal life in prayer. The surrounding reliefs depict key moments in the king's life and deeds, reminding us of Sweden's history of independence and Reformation.

Gustav Vasa, one of Sweden's most significant kings, ascended to the throne on June 6, 1523. This day became the celebration of the Swedish flag and their independence, as he secured the country's freedom from Danish rule, bringing an end to the Kalmar Union. He is considered the founder of modern Sweden, as his reforms strengthened central authority and introduced Protestantism, breaking ties woth the Chatholic Church. From Uppsala's perspective, he played a pivotal role in carrying out the Reformation and transforming Uppsala Cathedral into a Protestant unstitution.

After leaving the cathedral, we took a stroll around Uppsala. We admired the Jernbron, a pedestrian and bicycle bridge over the Fyrisån River. It is one of Sweden's first suspension bridges, built in 1846. Although it has been rebuilt several times since then, it still stands as a monument to the engineering skills and community spirit of that era. The rain began to drizzle, but we still walked to Carl von Linné's garden.

This is Sweden's first botanical garden, founded in 1655. Linné tended to around 3,000 plant species here, following the taxonomic principles he developed. The building where he lived and worked with his family now serves as a museum. The garden, with its natural beauty that changes with the seasons, offers a stunning sight from May to September and is an important part of Sweden's natural and cultural heritage.

Unfortunately, we didn't go into this museum either; instead, we headed back as the rain was getting heavier. At the end of the day, we returned to our accommodation and rested, concluding a day full of experiences. :) Something we didn't have the opportunity to do but would definitely recommend and mention is a trail in Uppsala. If you love history and mysteries, you'll simply adore this! Did you know that this area is home to the world's largest collection of runestones?

Yes, you heard that right: around 1300 of them! Uppsala and its surroundings are the Mecca of runestones—a true treasure trove for lovers of the past. In the city, there are about 40 complete or partial runestones, some located in their original spots, while others were brought here from distant regions. It's like the mysterious past of the Nordic people comes alive before our eyes.

Runes are the oldest writings of the Norse, real gateways to the Viking Age. Just the thought is exciting, right? Imagine, from the 900s to the early 1100s, runestones were erected in Sweden, usually to commemorate the deceased. But wait, it wasn’t just men who ordered these stones! Although they were usually the commissioners, sometimes a woman also appeared in this role, although women were rarely depicted as travelers or commissioners of stones. Interesting, isn’t it? And now, here's the surprise! Although many believe that most runestones are monuments to Viking Age Christianity, this isn’t necessarily true. Sure, you can sometimes see a cross on them, but there's much more to them than that.

Runestones were not just memorials to the deceased but also status symbols. Just think, if someone had a runestone erected, it not only flaunted their power and wealth but also showed the important role the deceased had in the community. It was like the inscriptions carved into the stone left a legacy for future generations. Raising the stones was actually a form of respect for the deceased, a way to ensure their memory lived on forever.

And where were these stones placed? In places where people passed by them daily. The more people who saw and read the inscriptions, the more the memory of the deceased remained. In fact, these stones served not only as memorials but also as markers, showing the way on land and water alike.

Creating runestones was a true art form. Often, professional runestone carvers like Öpir, Balle, or Visäte crafted them. And speaking of art, the inscriptions on the stones were often colored to make them stand out more. On some stones, even the entire surface was painted. Imagine the vivid reds, blacks, whites, and browns breathing life into these ancient stones!

If you happen to be in Uppsala, don't miss the 19 open-air runestones in the city center! You can take a leisurely half-hour walk along this ancient route, which takes you back to the world of the 1000s. The stones are located in four places: at the ruins of the old Franciscan monastery in Klosterpark, at the southern wall of the cathedral, in University Park, and in the courtyard of the Uppland Museum. It's a real journey through time!

Fun Facts and a Bit of History (If You're Interested :)

Gamla Uppsala and its surroundings feel like a magical journey back in time! Imagine a landscape where history and mythology blend together. Only continue reading if you're ready to explore the secrets of Scandinavian culture and history!

The Upplandsåsen ridge, one of Sweden's longest borders, has served as a natural route for millennia. The Royal Mound, the Thing Mound, and the church date back to between 550 and 1300. While they rise above the Högåsen ridge, the earth still guards their mysteries. Just think, these mounds conceal burials from between 300 and 1100 AD, where the realm of local rulers once stood! You can almost hear the ground whisper tales of the past...

Gamla Uppsala frequently appears not only in history but also in written records as the largest power center in the Mälaren region. Here, the Svear held Thing assemblies, fairs, and cultic celebrations, with the rulers playing a central role. According to the Icelandic Ynglinga Saga, the leading kings of the Svear lived here and were considered descendants of the god Freyr. Imagine the clash of ancient pagan beliefs with Christianity that took place here!

During the Vendel period (550–800), farms lined the Vattholma road, bordered by long rows of posts. In the Viking Age (800–1050), these settlements multiplied, with Gamla Uppsala possibly having 30-50 farms. The Royal Hall likely stood where the church is today, but its exact location has been lost to history.

In 2012-2013, during the construction of a new railway, an excavation uncovered a unique village over an area of 70,000 square meters. This village was directly connected to the king and stretched along the Vattholma road, with another row of posts leading toward the Högåsen ridge to the south. These rows of posts are unique in the Nordic countries and probably marked sacred sites.

The villagers had many roles: weapons were found where the king's warriors or guards likely lived. In the village's center, wealthy aristocrats resided, possibly those closest to the royal family. The southern farms were home to people who produced textiles, pottery, metalwork, and raised animals. Much of the work on the farms was done by serfs.

Worship was part of everyday life: sacrifices to gods and goddesses were made on the farms. At the agricultural sites, sickles, scythes, hand mills, and animal remains were sacrificed, while warriors offered amulets to Odin, along with wands, shields, and swords. Sacrificial gifts, like iron objects and human jaw fragments, were even hidden beneath the houses' floors!

The village cemetery was situated on a hill where the dead were cremated. Wealthier individuals were provided with food, household items, tools, weapons, toys, ornaments, pets, and sometimes even serfs for the afterlife. Families sometimes returned to the graves to place new objects and bones or remove others. At a shared cult site, the worlds of the living and the dead connected: horse and cow skulls, amulets, and fire-blessed objects were sacrificed.

In the churchyard, behind the fence, an ancient grave was also uncovered. The grave contained a woman who lived in the early Viking Age, the 9th century. Her clothes were made from Chinese silk, finely woven wool, and linen. Imagine how far this silk traveled! Her ornaments were equally extraordinary: bronze, silver, and glass beads, and even an amulet made from an old Arabic coin depicting a female deity. Was it Freya, the goddess of fertility? It's possible that the woman most closely reflected Freya: the wise ruler of the household.

Beside her, three men rest in their own boats, accompanied by their faithful horses. Unfortunately, the graves were disturbed and looted, with weapons taken. However, as fallen warriors, they hoped to join Freya or Odin in the afterlife. The graves also contained dogs and a cat, Freya's favorite animal. One man rests on a bear pelt, still emanating strength and ferocity. Someone even hung an iron ring on the ship's bow, adorned with an amulet of Thor's hammer.

Not far from here, on the banks of the Fyris River, 3 km north in Valsgärde, the dead were also buried in boats. But there, only warriors were found, men with weapons and riding equipment. Here in Gamla Uppsala, however, a different picture emerges. Odin's warriors and Freya, the goddess of fertility, sailed together in the same fleet toward eternity.

The amulet around the woman's neck might have depicted Freya, the goddess who traveled between worlds with her cats. The dog and rooster found in the grave were the household's guardians, now protecting the grave from robbers. Though much has decayed over time, a needle case with sewing needles and a knife, its sheath woven with silver threads, remain.

Gamla Uppsala was the site of the Svear's "fateful" Thing assemblies. Here, the Svear from around Lake Mälaren gathered to dispense justice, make laws, and political decisions. These meetings were called Distingen, or Disir Things, and were held during the spring equinox when sacrifices were made to the goddesses, the spirits of fertility.

Imagine: "The horse was brought to the Thing, cut up, and distributed for consumption, while the blót tree turned red with blood." Did this really happen at the Thing Mound? The story is told in the 13th-century Icelandic Hervarar Saga and allegedly took place in 1084. King Inge the Elder was deposed in the Thing for refusing to perform the ancient Norse blót sacrifice as a Christian. His brother-in-law, Blót-Sven, accepted the ceremony and was granted the throne, which the Thing approved.

Thus, Gamla Uppsala is not just a simple historical site but a magical world where Scandinavian history and mythology come to life.

What exactly is a Thing? Imagine an ancient Scandinavian assembly where the community gathers on a hilltop to discuss the most important matters: they make laws, settle disputes, and, of course, engage in some political maneuvering. That was the "Thing"! These meetings were held before and during the Middle Ages, and they were an integral part of the ancient Norwegian legal and political system. The Thing Mound, in particular, was a significant center during the Viking Age.

Just imagine how exciting it must have been! People gathered at the top of the Thing Mound to make decisions together. Legal issues, political questions, the introduction or amendment of laws – every important topic was on the table. And it wasn’t just dry legal stuff! These assemblies often took place in public spaces, so anyone could attend, making it a communal event.

But the Thing Mound was more than that. It was not only a legal and political center but also a religious and ceremonial site. In ancient Scandinavian societies, religion and politics went hand in hand, so Gamla Uppsala was a place where people could pay respect to their gods while making decisions about community affairs. It was a place where ceremonies and legal matters happened simultaneously!

The Thing meetings were not only important at a local level. They had regional significance as well, as these gatherings played a defining role in medieval Scandinavian society.

So, how old is the Thing? It’s hard to say exactly, but Gamla Uppsala was already a central place in the early days. It likely began around 600 AD, and the Thing Mound might have been constructed around that time. It could have served as a grave site but later became a gathering place for the Disir Thing. Although its central role diminished during the 13th century, Gamla Uppsala’s significance did not completely fade. Even King Gustav I held meetings there in the 16th century! In the 19th and 20th centuries, associations were formed that regarded Gamla Uppsala as a symbol of nationalism. In 1834, Uppsala students greeted Charles XIV John on the terrace of the Thing Mound. At that time, many cherished romantic dreams of ancient glory, and the Royal Mounds were seen as proof of it.

The mounds on the Högåsen ridge, dating from around 600 AD, are symbols of power and wealth. They are monumental burial mounds that proclaim the power and affluence of the elite of the time. Imagine the excitement of the 1874 excavation! When the Western Mound was unearthed, impressive artifacts were discovered: the remains of a man, golden objects, and exotic imports like onyx cameos that had traveled all the way from Byzantium! And if that wasn’t exciting enough, here come the legends! It is said that these royal mounds were created by the god Freyr, and they are said to be the resting place of his descendants, kings Aun, Egil, and Adils. The archaeological discoveries at Upplandsåsen reveal thousands of years of history. Learning about Gamla Uppsala is like taking a time-travel journey to medieval and Viking-age Sweden.

In the 1070s, a Christian priest named Adam of Bremen described the cult of Gamla Uppsala in detail, noting that it already contained Christian elements. However, over time, the significance of Gamla Uppsala remained. A major change occurred in 1164 when Sweden’s first archbishopric was established in Östra Aros, now Uppsala. This is why Gamla Uppsala is referred to as "Old" Uppsala.

The towers of Uppsala Cathedral still majestically preserve the memory of the past. During the Middle Ages, pilgrims came here in droves to venerate the relics of Saint Erik and pray for miracles. One of the most interesting stories is that on May 18, 1160, King Erik Jedvardsson was murdered while attending a mass at the Östra Aros church. And here comes the magic: according to legend, miraculous events occurred at the spot where the king fell! A spring gushed forth from the ground, and a blind woman regained her sight when she touched Erik’s body.

Erik’s body was transported to Gamla Uppsala, where he was buried at the original site of the cathedral. The relics of Saint Erik became a sacred treasure for the Swedish people, and thousands of pilgrims visited his tomb. People believed that Saint Erik’s relics represented a connection between the earth and heaven, where miracles could happen.

The relics were later kept in a decorated reliquary, and the archbishopric moved to Östra Aros in 1273. Gamla Uppsala remained a spiritual center, but pilgrimages were banned in Sweden in 1544, and the Uppsala Synod of 1593 permanently abolished Catholicism in the country. Today, Saint Erik’s relics are found in Uppsala Cathedral, and every year on May 18, a procession was held to bless the spring sowing on the Uppsala plain.

Uppsala Cathedral is Sweden’s national sanctuary, where services, quiet reflections, and the coronation of Swedish kings have taken place for over 700 years. Construction of the cathedral began in 1271, and it was consecrated in 1435. After the Reformation, its layout was altered to emphasize the main altar and seating for the congregation. The cathedral has undergone numerous fires and reconstructions. After the fire of 1702, it was rebuilt in the Baroque style, and it was expanded again in the 19th century. The last major renovation took place between 1971 and 1977, when it was enriched with modern elements.

Uppsala Cathedral’s rich history is an integral part of Swedish cultural and religious life, where the past and present meet.

The Svear, who lived in what is now central Sweden, can be considered the founders of the country. Their history stretches back to ancient times; the Roman historian Tacitus mentions them as a warlike and seafaring people as early as 98 AD. The Svear society was highly centralized, and Gamla Uppsala served as an important center where their rulers lived and where religious and political activities took place. The massive burial mounds and temples testify to the Svear’s wealth and social organization. During their pagan rituals and festivals, they made offerings to their gods, such as Odin, Thor, and Freyja.

The unification of the Svear and the Goths created the Kingdom of Sweden. The Svear played a central role in the formation of the early Swedish state, and the first kings came from this people. They were known for their shipbuilding skills and naval warfare, actively participating in Viking raids and trade. Their religious center, Gamla Uppsala, lost its significance with the spread of Christianity and was replaced by modern Uppsala. The name of Sweden originates from the Svear people. In Swedish, it is known as "Sverige," which comes from the old Norse word "Svearike" or "Sveariki," meaning "the kingdom of the Svear." Due to the dominant role of the Svear, the country’s name is linked to them. The English term "Sweden" also derives from this name, through the old English forms "Sweoland" or "Sweorice."