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(21)Day Twenty-One: Nostalgia in the Heart of Sweden – Örebro and Motala

Updated: Oct 12, 2024

One of the truly special stops on our Scandinavian cruise was Örebro and Motala. Even before the trip, I was already planning our route home after visiting Gamla Uppsala, deciding which side of Lake Vättern we should take toward Markaryd. I really wanted to see Hjo on the northern side, but in the end, the southern route seemed more adventurous with stops in Motala and Gränna. The day before, we were debating if we’d have time for Västerås as well. Finally, we decided to focus only on Örebro, as both cities wouldn’t fit into our schedule, and we weren’t in the mood for too much city-hopping. Örebro, based on the descriptions, seemed cuter and richer in history and culture.



This city, located in the heart of Sweden, immediately charms its way into your heart. It’s a real gem, full of history, peaceful natural beauty, and what probably touched us the most was the kindness the city radiated. I’m sure if you visit, you’ll feel at home right away.

One of our main goals was Wadköping, a must-see if you’re in Örebro. Although the weather wasn’t ideal and it drizzled a bit, we didn’t really mind. In fact, we’d been lucky with the weather throughout the trip. So, we grabbed our raincoats and dived into the city's history. In the park, we spotted Canadian geese—we’d never seen these birds before. There was also a smaller type of bird constantly flying around, probably something similar to sparrows back home (before they became rare).


So, Wadköping is a fascinating open-air museum that showcases old buildings saved from the city center. It’s fantastic that during the construction boom from the 1950s onward, instead of demolishing these structures, they preserved them for future generations. As you step through the entrance, it’s like being transported back to the 17th or 18th century when these wooden houses were the bustling hubs of community life.


Cobbled streets, colorful red-painted houses—it’s like a little village idyll. On one side, you see 17th, 18th, and early 19th-century architecture, while on the other, you notice the traces of restoration after the city fire of 1854. We even got a glimpse of what a school looked like 2-300 years ago. The small, low building practically exuded the atmosphere of those times, though Peter stormed out grumpily after bumping his head on the doorframe. :)

Did you know that the name Wadköping comes from a novel by Hjalmar Bergman? The fictional town in Bergman’s "Markurells i Wadköping" inspired the name for this place. The whole site feels like a time travel experience, where not only the historical buildings but also local artisan shops and bakeries bring the olden days to life.

We saw all sorts of wonders. We bought handmade mead because, well, who could resist, especially when there’s even a non-alcoholic version available? But what exactly is mead, if not just a simple drink? It’s a honey-based brew that was a favorite of the northern peoples, even back in Viking times—if it’s made with honey, it’s bound to be good, right? Mead ferments like beer, but the main ingredient is honey instead of grain. Viking logic: why bother with grain when you’ve got honey?

The taste? Well, that depends on what they put in it—sometimes fruit, sometimes spices, and sometimes even the good mood of the Viking gods. The strength varies, too, since the more honey used, the bigger the kick. In any case, it’s sweet, honey-like, fruity, and a drink that gently warms your soul, especially on a cool northern evening. If you visit Wadköping, be sure to try a Swedish pastry, too—maybe you’ll find the world’s best cinnamon bun here!

One house that we found particularly interesting was the former home of Cajsa Warg. Christina "Cajsa" Warg, the famous Swedish chef whose recipes still influence Swedish cuisine, was born here in Örebro. As we walked through the house, we couldn’t help but imagine Cajsa bustling around in the kitchen, perhaps experimenting with a new recipe for her renowned cookbook—which, let’s be honest, wasn’t just any cookbook.


Published in 1755 under the title "Hjelpreda I Hushållningen för Unga Fruentimber" (roughly translating to "Help in Household Management for Young Ladies"), it became a bestseller. No wonder—it was packed with practical advice on running a household and cooking delicious, nutritious meals. And it wasn’t just about tasty dishes: Cajsa paid great attention to economy, something we could rediscover today when a waste-free kitchen is becoming increasingly important.


Many consider Cajsa Warg to be a pioneer of Swedish gastronomy, and for good reason—her recipes still hold up today. Beyond her culinary wonders, she helped turn household chores into a form of art. And who wouldn’t want to add a little extra art to their daily cleaning or cooking? If for no other reason, at least so we can proudly say after a good meal: “Cajsa would be proud of us!” The rooms, by the way, are beautifully decorated with well-preserved decorative paintings and motifs!


Next to it is the King’s Lodge, Örebro’s oldest building, which was moved to Wadköping in 1899. Back in the day, even Duke Karl stayed here in 1580 and 1581 before stepping into history as King Karl IX. Imagine what these walls must have witnessed! On the top floor, an artistic treat awaits: beautiful, period wall and ceiling murals from the 16th century. Today, the King’s Lodge is a museum, but be careful not to hurt its feelings, it’s old! :)


But you can’t talk about Örebro without mentioning the medieval castle, Örebro slott, located in the city center on a small island in the Svartån River. The fortress’s history stretches back to the 13th century, when it served military defense purposes. Nowadays, it plays a more peaceful role as one of the city's most iconic landmarks, attracting tourists from all over.

The place is like a maze, filled with exhibits, and there’s even a medieval playroom for the kids in the lower area, it was an adventure just figuring out how to leave!

The surrounding park is filled with interesting installations, most of which draw attention to global warming and environmental pollution.


As we walked back, the rain picked up, so we took a break on a covered terrace in the company of some crows. I ordered a Chai latte, which turned out to be very milky, probably on purpose. The fika cakes are really sweet, so maybe that’s why they make these coffees so milky?"



After Örebro, we set our course for Motala, a paradise for explorers. While many visit primarily for the Göta Canal, we were drawn to something else: the Motala Motor Museum, which happens to be right next to the canal.


This isn’t your average museum—it’s a true nostalgia bomb, packed with motorcycles and cars, a real treasure trove for enthusiasts. Every corner has a touch of the past, as if time has stopped to let us admire the old technological marvels that once ruled the roads.

The museum has been running since 1995, and when they say you’ll find everything here, they mean it. There are over 200 vehicles waiting for you: classic cars, vintage motorcycles, and even old TVs and radios, in case you’d rather dive into the world of retro rooms. Jan-Ove Boll, the founder of the Motala Motor Museum, originally worked as a toolmaker but found his true calling in radio and TV sales. After gaining plenty of experience through his travels, he decided to open his own TV shop in Linköping, which grew into quite a success—he ended up with 37 stores! Along the way, he collected quite a few cars, which he wanted to display. And so, the Motala Motor Museum was born, where today, anyone can marvel at Jan-Ove’s treasures. Imagine this: you can even check out the official car of the Swedish king! Among the exhibited vehicles are some real rarities, offering car and motorcycle fans a true trip back in time. Although, the mannequins helping with the display were a bit awkward—one had its leg turned the wrong way on a motorcycle :) The collection spans from the 1920s all the way to the 1970s, with classic vehicles from iconic brands like Ford, Volvo, Saab, and many others. Motorcycle enthusiasts won’t be disappointed either, as there’s a variety of bikes from different eras to explore. Peti was most fascinated by the old radios, TVs, and all sorts of vintage gadgets. I felt bad that we were pretty tired, so he couldn’t explore the things that piqued his curiosity in detail. That’s why I made sure to take plenty of photos and document everything thoroughly. :)

And if you think it’s all about vehicles and TVs here, guess what? There’s also a dedicated photo museum! It has cameras from all eras and even a retro-style photo development counter. Remember the photo labs from the ‘80s and ‘90s, where we used to pick up our tangible memories after they were developed from film rolls? Remember the design and graphics of that world? The blonde Marilyn Monroe figure in pixelated pop-art style? :D


Oh, and did you know there’s also a Beatles exhibit here? It takes you right back to the rock ‘n’ roll world of the 1960s. I’m not entirely sure how a band exhibit fits into a motor museum, if you’ve got any ideas, feel free to drop a comment. Maybe it’s the founder’s favorite band, and this is his personal Beatles collection? :) There’s even a bit of humor sprinkled throughout the exhibit, like the man holding a bouquet of flowers in front of a Durex machine. The old, non-smartphones were also super interesting, they encourage you to find your old phone model. And yes, we found ours. :) Örebro and Motala together made for a day filled with history, nostalgia, and surprises. The meeting of memories from the past with the modern world created a truly special experience, and I’m sure anyone who visits will be just as enchanted.


We moved on, tired but happy, to our accommodation in Gränna, hoping to save some energy for our final day in Sweden.




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