(20)Day Twenty: Sigtuna and Anundshög – In Pursuit of Runestones, Historical Ruins, and Mysteries

We bid farewell to our favorite accommodation with a bit of sadness, but once everything was packed and ready, it was off to Sigtuna! :)

Attention! The following entry dives deep into the sea of Swedish history and culture—prepare yourself for a journey through time!

I've longed to visit Sigtuna for a reason! This town is rich in history, culture, and a magical atmosphere.

It began to take shape around 980 and is considered one of the oldest settlements in Sweden. Several towns already existed before it (such as Birka, Upparka, Lund, Uppsala), but Sigtuna was the first fully planned and systematically built settlement, showcasing an impressive combination of history and intentional urban design. It is no coincidence that it earned the title "Birthplace of Sweden": founded by King Erik the Victorious and granted city rights by Olof Skötkonung in 1010, it was once an important political and religious center. Walking through the city streets, you feel as though you've traveled back in time: ancient church ruins, runestones, and medieval buildings line the way everywhere you go.

Sigtuna boasts one of the largest collections of runestones in Sweden. These stones not only provide a stunning sight but also tell real stories about the people who lived here over a thousand years ago. The runestones scattered throughout the landscape are a reminder of the region's deep northern roots. With its picturesque location on the shores of Lake Mälaren, well-preserved wooden houses, and narrow medieval streets, the town exudes a truly enchanting atmosphere. It's easy to fall in love with this place, which combines the beauty of nature with historical charm.

During our walk, we couldn't miss the Rådhus, perhaps Sweden's smallest town hall, which has stood on Stora Torget since 1744. The then-mayor, Erik Kihlman, envisioned this building to replace the dilapidated predecessor. Locals provided wood and funds for its construction. For centuries, the building has been the heart of the town, hosting markets, concerts, and competitions, and serving as a source of water for the people at the central wells. Today, it's a national monument and museum, with the council chamber being a popular wedding venue.

Not far from the former town hall stands the Church of St. Mary, with the remains of the Church of St. Olaf opposite. This church was dedicated to St. Olaf and was the easternmost church on the processional route. The first inhabitants of Sigtuna were laid to rest in burial grounds known as "churchyards." Excavations carried out between 2001 and 2005 revealed that there had been an earlier stone church on this site before the current one. Graves older than the stone churches suggest that the very first church might have been a wooden structure dating back to the late 11th century.

Saint Olaf, the King of Norway, was famous for his Viking raids, but after converting to Christianity, he played a role in spreading the faith throughout Norway. After his death, miraculous stories about him began to circulate, and he was laid to rest in the Nidaros Cathedral (in Trondheim). His grave became one of the largest pilgrimage sites of the Middle Ages.

St. Mary's Church is one of the oldest surviving brick churches in Sigtuna. It was built in the 1200s by Dominican monks and originally served as part of the monastic complex. Its architectural style reflects a blend of Romanesque and Gothic features. Of the original monastery buildings, only the church remains, as the rest was demolished over the centuries. The interior is simple and serene, reflecting the spirit of medieval monastic life. The altar and stained glass windows create a special atmosphere in the space, making it an oasis of peace and tranquility for visitors.

Sigtuna boasts two more ruins: an unnamed church on the grounds of the Sigtuna Museum and St. Peter’s Church at the end of Prästgatan. They’re worth visiting if you enjoy historical mysteries!

We wandered a little further and caught sight of the ruins of St. Lars Church. Yes, today only part of the tower and the northern wall of the nave remain, hidden beneath an earth mound. Originally, the church had a western tower, a nave, and a sanctuary where the altar once stood. In the wall, two window openings can still be seen. The central brick section is believed to have been built in the 16th century. So, if you want to stroll through a town filled with medieval churches, Sigtuna is the right choice: it once greeted people with six to eight stone churches!

St. Lars Church was used before the Reformation, up until the 1530s, after which it functioned as a school for a time. Sadly, in 1658, a great fire left it in ruins. If you love antiquities, it’s worth knowing that St. Peter’s and St. Olaf’s churches were preserved in 2018 and 2020, and the restoration of St. Lars is also planned. :)

The old cemetery next to the ruins of St. Lars Church is truly unique! Here, the remains of 19 people, who were likely executed, were discovered.

A runestone was also found: Nf 56, which reads, “Anund had the stone erected in memory of himself in his lifetime” The name Anund was not uncommon during the Viking Age, but it is unusual for someone to erect a runestone in their own memory while still alive. However, Jarlabanke from Täby, for example, raised at least five such stones!

The other runestone, Nf 390, bears the inscription: "Sven had the stone erected in memory of... his father and Frödis in memory of Ulf, her husband. God help his soul." The name Frödis only appears once more in the Viking era, borne by the daughter of Erik the Red. Fragments of this stone were found in two different locations in Sigtuna, and unfortunately, the name of the father is no longer legible.

But now, let’s talk about the hill! We climbed Klockbacken Hill, which rises behind the ruins of St. Lars. Here lies an old cemetery, consisting of about ten circular stone mounds, though they are somewhat hard to distinguish. One of the mounds is more visible and can be easily seen east of the bell tower. The cemetery at Klockbacken is different from the other burial sites in Viking-era Sigtuna, which suggests that this location might have been a burial ground for the social elite, where the graves needed to be more prominent.

At the top of the hill stands Klockstapeln, the clock tower, a charming little building that supposedly once housed a clock. Since the Middle Ages, it has become one of the symbols of the town, reminding people of Sigtuna’s history. I'm not exactly sure what it is though. It didn’t chime while we were there. In Swedish, it’s called a clock tower (klockstapeln), but in English, it’s referred to as a belfry. Perhaps it once held a bell and later a clock? In any case, it burned to the ground in June 2016, but the locals rebuilt it, and it was reopened two years later. In spring, Klockbacken Hill is full of daffodils, and many have nostalgic memories of the dances that were held here until the late 1970s.

Sigtuna is a true gem of Swedish history and culture, and if you ever visit, I’m sure you’ll be completely enchanted!

As we returned to the car, we headed back toward Västerås, but Sigtuna had really worn us out. But wait, it’s not over yet! :D We skipped the planned sightseeing, but we couldn’t miss Anundshög!

Although Anundshög might seem to some like just a grassy area with strange mounds and arranged stones not far from Västerås… imagine traveling deep into the Viking past, where history isn’t just a rumor.

Anundshög, the largest burial mound in Sweden, is an enormous 9m high and 64m wide mound, dating from between 600 and 1000 AD. Beneath the mound, ashes were placed on a layer of clay, which was then covered with a 4.5m deep and 37m wide stone dome, soil, and turf. Just imagine how many people must have worked on this!

Could these mounds be the Scandinavian pyramids? :)

In the area around Anundshög, there are five stone ships, or formations made of standing stones. These formations are typical ancient northern monuments, primarily found at burial sites. This place was already a center of power in the Iron Age. We don’t know how large it was, but kings surely lived here. Due to its location, the area was easy to control, with vast tracts of land and a well-defended position. All of this, along with the site's ancient name, was lost to time when the stone ships were linked to pagan religious rituals, leading to their burial during the Christianization period. Four have been restored since 1932, with the largest being 53 meters long and 16 meters wide. Isn’t that marvelous?

The burial sites around Anundshög not only appear orderly but also seem as though the stone ships and mounds are deliberate parts of monumental compositions, envisioned by the diligent workers of an ancient construction.

Archaeological research revealed that this area was inhabited 3,300 years ago, during the Bronze Age. Back then, the area was situated at the end of a bay, and rock carvings suggest that a seafaring community lived here. Over the next 1,200 years, the land rose, transforming much of the watery terrain into pasture, so the people living here turned to livestock farming.

But let’s dive a bit deeper into history! The Tuna burial sites near Anundshög are also incredibly fascinating. A total of eight ship burials were found, a burial form reserved for particularly important individuals, and every grave at the Tuna burial site contained female remains. In the richest grave, they discovered a gold necklace, bracelets, rings, and pins that originated from Denmark. This grave dates back to the 300s, and it was the largest gold find ever made at a Swedish burial site! Imagine how wealthy the person buried here must have been! Yet, there’s no information about who this Danish woman was. Who were these women? What was their connection to the Tuna estate? Were they priestesses of some ancient cult? These questions still remain unanswered.

As I stood beside the burial mound at Anundshög, I suddenly noticed a larger runestone that seemed to whisper a story from the past. Do you know what the stone said? "Folkvid, a prominent person from Badelunda, raised them in memory of his son Heden, brother of Anund. The runes on the stones were carved by Vred." The figures on the stones—perhaps an entwined man and woman—are unique among Swedish runestones, lending the place an almost fairy-tale atmosphere.

As I imagined Folkvid giving instructions to the stone carver to create the finest monument, I felt the wind of the past sweep through the site.

But Folkvid didn’t just leave behind this remarkable memorial! He was also the one who had the road built that runs alongside Anundshög, marking it with a row of tall monoliths. And why was this road so important? The newly crowned king would ride along it throughout his realm, to receive the homage of his people.

In the Middle Ages, every new king embarked on an Eriksgata – a special journey to have their election confirmed by representatives from the other regions. The royal procession followed a fixed route through the medieval Swedish provinces. This road passed by Anundshög, connecting the western and eastern parts of Sweden.

Most medieval kings rode along this route, beside the imposing mound, surely feeling the weight of history. Imagine the newly crowned king riding between the monoliths – I’m sure this path commanded immense respect.

And while we’re still walking along the path of history, there stands an old, yellow house called Anundsborg. Did you know that craftsmen and workers have lived here since the early 19th century? Among them was the blacksmith Ivar Bill, who moved here with his wife and daughter in 1919. After he was widowed, the new housekeeper, Ebba Wallqvist, realized that opening a café and shop would be a real goldmine! In a small wooden shack, which has since disappeared, tourists could rest with a cup of coffee next to the Anundshög mound, where the blacksmith would serve them lemon muffins or orange soda. Can you imagine the scent of coffee mixing with the atmosphere of the past?

However, Anundshög was not only famous for the King's Road or the café. This was also the site of the thing—meetings where local people settled legal disputes. In the Middle Ages, district court sessions were held here, and the site was known as the "rightful court town." The disputes ranged from land ownership to criminal cases. Can you picture these discussions taking place outdoors, among the stones of the tumulus? From the 800s, court sessions were held in a stone circle 8-10 meters in diameter, before they were later moved to Badelunda Church.

Here, the past feels almost tangible, where the royal roads, runestones, and the old house all tell us stories of a bygone era. If you ever get the chance to visit Anundshög, don’t hesitate! Walk the ancient path, listen to the stones’ whispers, and enjoy the history of the place, which is both captivating and moving. Or walk barefoot on the grassy terrain and soak up the energy, just as I did. :)

At the end of the day, after thoroughly recharging, we headed off towards our accommodation in Arboga. The road there was quite interesting: a little side road off the highway led through a farm, where our little house stood. It was the most typical and mystical Swedish accommodation I had ever seen! Even though the “DIY” cleaning left the couch a bit dog-smelly, and the previous guest had somehow managed to disconnect the Wi-Fi... Oh, and the smell of the water? Well, let’s just say that was... memorable. :)

But when we watched the mystical Swedish mist floating over the field from the window at sunset, enjoying the cozy atmosphere of the house, or when we looked out of the kitchen window in the morning at the curious mushrooms growing in the grass, these small annoyances instantly faded away. It was just like a Scandinavian fairy tale! :) (Photo of the accommodation at the end of the Anundshög photo album)