(13)Day Thirteen - Trolls, Wandering, and Reindeer in Nipfjället

In the morning, we were greeted by a cool 7°C weather, but we barely paid it any attention. Originally, we had planned to visit Njupeskär, Sweden's largest waterfall, located in Fulufjället National Park. However, since it was quite a distance away, we decided to stay closer and chose Nipfjället instead. It is a picturesque and relatively accessible mountain area offering tranquility and proximity to nature. Two iconic mountains stand here: the famous Städjan and the Mulan.

Along the way, we passed by Trollvägen, a mystical road in the Nipfjället area. According to Scandinavian folklore, trolls inhabit the area—no wonder they are featured in the name of the road! What makes this road particularly special is the gravitational illusion. It appears as if cars roll uphill on the slope, defying common sense (and gravity). It's real magic! Unfortunately, we didn’t try out the trick because the traffic was quite heavy—we didn’t want to hold anyone up with a troll-themed “test drive.” :)

When we arrived at the parking lot, we were a bit disoriented from the previous days' effects. So much so that we ended up heading in the wrong direction. Instead of heading towards the Städjan, which is a rather distinctive mountain, we started circling the Mulan. We didn’t realize this mistake for a while and ended up walking down into a marshy area. Marshes everywhere, filled with cottongrass and cloudberries. A bit higher up, the landscape was covered with blueberries and lingonberries, as if we were walking through a natural jam carpet.

Städjan is a particularly distinctive, conical mountain peak, standing 1131 meters tall. Due to its appearance, its name means "pointed mountain," and it is one of the most recognizable and iconic formations in the area. The mountain is highly recognizable because it forms a nearly perfect cone, making it a popular destination for hikers.

The Mullfjället (Mulan) is located next to Städjan, and together they form the famous Städjan-Nipfjället Nature Reserve. This area is particularly protected due to the rich plant and animal life found here. Mulan is also popular among hikers, though it is less well-known and dramatic than the neighboring Städjan. In terms of height, it is similar, about 1191 meters high, and its broad ridges and gentler parts offer excellent opportunities for both summer hikes and winter sports.

The trails on Mulan are less crowded, making it a popular choice for those seeking tranquility. There really weren’t many people around. The landscape is varied, with the mountain featuring forested areas, marshes, streams, and alpine meadows. Additionally, the mountain top offers a great view of the surrounding landscape, including distant Norwegian mountain ranges.

The Städjan-Nipfjället Nature Reserve is ecologically significant, as it is home to many rare and protected plant and animal species. The presence of reindeer is particularly characteristic of the area, and various bird species, such as the horned lark and the snowy owl, can also be found here.

The weather? It was constantly changing—sunny, windy, then sunny again. Despite our layered clothing, I kept pulling on and off my thinner long-sleeved shirt, depending on the wind. I really missed having ear protection as the wind was quite strong at times.

When we finally realized we were going the wrong way, we were deep in the marshy area. But we didn’t mind! Although Peter’s shoes got wet (poor guy), we enjoyed exploring the boggy landscape. We even encountered some reindeer droppings, though the animals themselves were hiding. Eventually, we found our way back to a running trail that passed by the Mulan, and after much effort, we returned to our starting point.

By the end of the day, we were quite tired, but as soon as we reached the parking lot, we sat on a bench and enjoyed the stunning view of the entire Nipfjället area. As the cool wind picked up, I pulled on my sweater again, I was done playing with layers. :)

So why did we get lost? Well, the only logical explanation is trolls! I even saw a rock that looked like a troll on the way back. They must have tricked us to lead us towards the marsh. :) And they did well because on our way back, we finally spotted a wild reindeer!

Peter spotted the majestic animal, and of course, I immediately grabbed the camera. Although the sunlight wasn’t ideal, I managed to take a few photos and a video with my phone, even if it wasn’t very close. I tried to call out in Swedish, but the reindeer continued grazing with complete indifference. Wild animals—tourist chatter doesn’t really interest them.

Thus ended this day, hoarse but with ginger-honey tea and plenty of vitamin C at our accommodation. We didn’t get to pet a reindeer, but at least we encountered a real wild specimen, which was perhaps an even more special experience. Spontaneous adventures always bring surprises—we’ve surely learned that by now.

Trollvägen and the Gravitational Illusion

Trollvägen is a narrow, winding mountain road leading towards the peaks of Nipfjället. The road offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape, especially the conical peak of Städjan. Due to its beauty and relative isolation, it is popular among visitors who enjoy exploring the mountains by car. At the end of the Trollvägen is a parking lot where visitors can park their cars and continue their journey on foot into the mountains. This road serves as a gateway to the Nipfjället hiking trails, where visitors can climb the mountain peaks or simply enjoy the proximity to nature.

Along the road, you can see beautiful alpine landscapes, lakes, and pine forests, which create a special atmosphere, particularly on misty or rainy days. The weather can often be variable, making the route almost always offer new and exciting experiences.

Illusion: In reality, it’s not gravity behaving strangely but rather how our brain perceives the surrounding terrain. Environmental elements—such as mountains, roads, and trees—create a visual effect where a slope that actually goes downhill appears to go uphill. This optical illusion makes it seem like the car is rolling uphill when in neutral or a ball is rolling towards the hilltop.

Trollvägen has become famous for this gravitational illusion, encouraging many visitors to try it out. Those who stop along the road and put their car in neutral often experience the car “rolling uphill,” as if defying the laws of physics. This unique phenomenon can provide a fascinating experience.