(12)Day Twelve: In the Shadows of Bears, Reindeer, and Pines – A Day in the Wilderness of the "Bear Slope"

This day wasn’t about active adventures, but sometimes it’s the quiet, small moments that stick with you the most. We were a bit tired from the previous day's longer distances, so on this day, we decided to just relax. Here in the mountains, we woke up to the coldest morning so far: 5°C! On July 31st! But what can we expect from the mountains of Dalarna County? :)

Originally, the plan was to visit Grövelsjön, which isn't too far from here. Our host in Björnliden, who comes from a Sámi family, suggested several local activities: reindeer petting, hiking with reindeer, and even reindeer coffee. We thought about it but didn’t book in advance because we weren’t sure if we’d have the energy for it. And in the end, we didn’t make it to Grövelsjön, deciding instead to rest a bit more. We were a bit disappointed, but that was alright, as the later part of the day still held surprises.

After resting somewhat, we decided to take a walk in the surrounding forest. I was looking at a trail, and we wandered around. We found an interesting spot, a fire pit with prepared and chopped firewood and even a power outlet. Eventually, it was the “Allemansrätten” (the famous Swedish right that allows you to roam freely in nature) that gave us the courage to stray off the path when we found a less overgrown entrance into the forest. We hoped to see a moose, but of course, mosquitoes were the first “wildlife” to appear. We sprayed ourselves to at least avoid being bitten.

The softness of the ground, the peat, and the moss gave the feeling of walking on a giant, natural mattress in the pine forest. We occasionally stopped and picked some blueberries – nature’s table.

Where there wasn’t blueberry or heather and moss, there was moose scat, suggesting they were nearby, just not showing themselves. But moose are cunning creatures and preferred to stay hidden. :)

Despite this, the wilderness walk was one of the best experiences of my life, the true Scandinavia I longed for, opening my heart and soul. Among the dense pines, I felt like I had stepped into another world – quiet, mysterious, and full of signs of life. I think even predator animals were lurking nearby.

When we found our way back to the road, of course, we discovered the real, well-trodden trail – if we had known about it earlier, we might have ventured less into the wild forest, but this was part of the experience. We continued a bit on this new path, and as we walked, I realized how much I loved this forest: soft, friendly, and filled with plants like cloudberries or white marsh-marigold, clustered in the swampy areas, creating a scene like a secret, fairy-tale glade.

By the end of the day, I realized that although we didn’t see any moose or reindeer, this quiet day was perfect. Because sometimes, the best experiences aren’t those suggested by tourist guides, but those that nature itself offers us. These days remind us that proximity to nature, the small, slow moments, and quiet beauty are what truly touch us. And sometimes, the greatest adventure is a simple walk in the wilderness, where every step is a new discovery, or perhaps moose scat. :) I would choose such a day a thousand times over a hot Croatian seaside one!

Björnliden:

Did you know that there are several Lidens in Sweden? But these are usually smaller villages or settlements that are not always officially registered. Their names mean "something small hill" or "something slope," which suggests that, for example, Björnliden (where "björn" means bear) might have once been a habitat for bears. Our Björnliden is located between Idre and Grövelsjön, but exactly which one it belongs to is uncertain. In the northern parts of Sweden, many place names refer to nature or wildlife (as IKEA product names do) – it’s no coincidence that bears frequently appear in place names.

Grövelsjön:

Grövelsjön is a beautiful lake in northern Sweden, close to the Norwegian border. The lake and its surroundings are popular among hikers and nature lovers, as the mountains and lakes offer a marvelous panorama. This area is also part of Sámi culture, so if you're lucky, you might even encounter reindeer herders.

Sámi Reindeer Herder Life:

The life of Sámi reindeer herders is closely intertwined with the cycles of nature. They follow the migration of the reindeer through the seasons, grazing them in the forests during winter and in the mountains during summer. The Idre area is special because it’s the southernmost part of Sweden where active reindeer herding still occurs. The Sámi way of life and culture – including traditional "joik" songs – are deeply rooted in nature and the changing seasons. Their reindeer are not just animals but symbols of their daily life – sources of food, clothing, and shelter.

Documentary about Sámi reindeer herders at THIS link!

Allemansrätten:

Or “everyman’s right,” a unique and ancient Scandinavian legal tradition that allows everyone to freely access nature, regardless of whether it’s private or public land. This right exists in Sweden, Norway, and Finland, and ensures that people can hike, camp, pick mushrooms and berries, and enjoy nature while respecting the environment and landowners.

Allemansrätten permits people to walk or cycle through forests, fields, mountains, lakes, and rivers. However, it does not apply to motorized traffic on private land, but walking and cycling are free. The law allows for camping for one or two nights anywhere, except near private homes. During camping, one must respect nature and properly dispose of food waste and trash.

As part of Allemansrätten, everyone can freely collect wild mushrooms, berries, flowers, and herbs, as long as they are not protected species. Fishing and hunting, however, generally require separate permits. The rule allows for campfires but only very carefully and in accordance with local regulations. For instance, there might be fire bans during dry periods. When choosing a place for a fire, care must be taken not to damage nature. Although people can roam freely in nature, disturbing animals, especially nesting birds, wildlife, and pets, is prohibited. Nature must be carefully protected, meaning plants and trees should not be harmed. Although you can move freely on private land, it's important to respect the privacy of property owners. You should not move directly near residential buildings or enter gardens and other designated private areas.

This not only provides freedom to explore nature but also comes with responsibility! The principle is “leave no trace,” meaning take what you bring with you and do not harm the environment while respecting others' rights.

This rule aligns with the environmental and sustainability efforts of Scandinavian countries. Allemansrätten is thus a particularly important part of Scandinavian culture, fostering a close connection with nature and promoting a sustainable lifestyle and respect for the environment.