(9)Day Nine: The Norwegian Adventure - Trolls and Ferry Journey towards Trondheim

The morning didn't start very cheerfully as we had to say goodbye to the magical accommodation in Runde. Our sadness was only heightened by the fact that we faced a 5-6 hour drive towards Trondheim. Trondheim, Norway's third-largest city, is the northernmost point of our journey, and we will spend our last nights of the Norwegian trip there.

Originally, we planned to skip Ålesund, the city near Runde, and head towards Andalsnes instead to admire the winding serpentine roads of Trollstigen and then rest at the Trollveggen Visitor Center. Well, we were out of luck because a month before our trip, there were massive rockslides, and Trollstigen was closed for the entire season. The visitor center at the top was open, but it would have been a bit inconvenient to visit it knowing that we would have to come back the same way. We couldn't fit it into our schedule. Yes, Geiranger was also missed, which is one of Norway's most iconic and picturesque locations, situated in the heart of the famous Geirangerfjord. It wasn't part of the plan, and we weren't too keen on the crowds anyway.

Around 11 AM, we boarded the ferry between Hareid and Sulesund. The journey took only 25 minutes, but my Central European, over-manualized brain was concerned about how to pay for the ferry ride. There was no machine or controller in sight. Eventually, I found a sign, downloaded the app (Ferrypay), registered the car and banking details, but the system didn't do anything, and there were no other settings or selection options, like which ferry we were on. It turned out that cameras on the ferry recorded the license plate both when arriving and departing, and a few hours later, the fee was automatically deducted, and the bill was sent. A little technical tidbit. How simple and automated the system was compared to the Hungarian one!

Our next stop was Ålesund, which wasn't planned, but we decided that "since we are nearby, let's take a look around." Well, that was a mistake. The town is indeed beautiful due to its Art Nouveau architecture, but an ocean liner filled with "sightseeing tourists" arrived either that day or the day before. Everything was covered in trash and dirt, and the experience reminded us more of Budapest. Moreover, it was Sunday, and on Sundays in Norway, most shops and places are closed. We were interested in the Aksla viewpoint, but we were too tired to hike up there. The troll figures in front of the shops were cute, but we didn’t want to stay long; we continued on our way to explore Norway's rural wonders. I'm sorry that I can't really say good things about this city; others have probably had better luck with it.

Our next major stop was the Trollveggen Visitor Center, near Andalsnes. Fatigue had already taken its toll on the trip, but the place was magical. Unfortunately, the Trollveggen (Troll Wall) was hidden behind clouds in the gloomy weather, but the local troll statue was of more interest to everyone. After a short rest, we continued on our journey and soon reached a more barren-looking area after Dombås.

At this point, the "trolls" magical power reappeared, and I spotted a troll figure among the grass-roofed, black houses. We had to turn in immediately to explore this special place, the Dovregubbens Hall.

Here, we encounter the famous troll, Dovregubb, one of the most well-known characters in Norwegian mythology and folklore. The statue aims to bring local legends to life and showcase Norwegian folklore. Artistically, it's also noteworthy, as it reflects elements of local culture and history.

Imagine entering a fairy-tale world surrounded by mountains, where trolls hiding in the mist become real. The Dovregubbens Hall, in the heart of Norway, is exactly such a place, where you can almost hear the old fairy-tale creatures whispering in the mountains.

To make the place even more special, you can encounter Rolf Lidberg's magical trolls, as if they had just emerged from the mist. Rolf Lidberg, the Swedish artist, uniquely painted these charming, slightly bumbling trolls, with whom several generations have grown up.

Lidberg’s trolls are not frightening; they seem like they have stepped out of an old Swedish fairy tale – friendly, somewhat whimsical beings who are the guardians of the spirit of nature. This duality of kindness and mystery makes his work so captivating.

At this location, four Lidberg prints are exhibited, perfectly capturing the feeling of the place: the mysticism of nature and the presence of trolls. By the way, did you know that the characters from the Moomin cartoon series, which I and my generation grew up with, are actually trolls? Aren't they adorable? :)

As you sit there embraced by the mountains, with a cup of hot drink in your hand, and gaze at these pictures, you almost believe that a troll might walk through the door at any moment. Lidberg’s trolls remind us that life in nature is much deeper than we might think at first. These creatures, however fictional, transport us back to a time when people believed the world was full of mysterious beings to be revered.

By the end, Peter had had enough of the trolls because they were everywhere! Even the souvenir shop was full of them. :)

Nearby is Dovrefjell National Park and the Anfinnsbrua, an interesting and impressive bridge, but unfortunately, we couldn't visit it, even though we passed by. It was too spontaneous a stop, and we had no information about what the place hides. We know that the Anfinnsbrua is a unique structure that is part of the landscape.

So, if you ever get to Dombås, don’t miss the opportunity to immerse yourself in this magical world. The Dovregubbens Hall is a place where, alongside Lidberg's trolls, you can also become a bit of a troll – at least enough to relive the childlike wonder that nature can offer.

Finally, around 9 PM, we arrived in Trondheim, but adventures awaited us here as well. We couldn't reach the host because the accommodation wasn’t self-check-in, and all our attempts to contact them were in vain. Eventually, we found a new place through Airbnb, which, although a bit more expensive, was comfortable and had a washer and dryer, so we ended up well for the last two nights in Norway. Fortunately, the new host responded quickly and was very kind, which we especially appreciated since it was Sunday evening. The original host eventually reappeared, and fortunately, we received a full refund.

Tired but filled with adventures, we lay our heads down on the comfortable bed, and the next day promised more exciting adventures and lots of walking!

A Little Information About Ålesund:

A picturesque Norwegian city famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and stunning natural surroundings. Its exceptional beauty is due to its location close to surrounding fjords, mountains, and the sea. Ålesund was the victim of a devastating fire in 1904 that almost completely destroyed it. During the reconstruction, the city was rebuilt in the Art Nouveau style with the help of German architects who applied the characteristic architectural elements of the era. The city is still famous for its unique, turreted, and ornate facades, reflecting the post-fire reconstruction. One of the city’s most popular attractions is the Aksla viewpoint, which offers a beautiful panorama of Ålesund and the surrounding islands and is accessed by a steep staircase.

Dovrebubben:

A legendary Norwegian folk figure, one of the most well-known characters in Norwegian folklore. His name comes from the "Dovre" mountain range in central Norway and the "gubbe" word meaning "old man" or "wise man." Dovregubb is usually depicted as a mountain giant or troll in the stories and is often considered the protector of the mountains.

The most famous reference to Dovregubb is found in Henrik Ibsen’s famous play, Peer Gynt. In one scene, Peer Gynt encounters the court of Dovregubb, which is filled with trolls and mystical beings. Ibsen drew from Norwegian mythology for this scene, and Dovregubb here is a formidable, feared troll king living deep in the mountains.

Dovregubb’s cultural significance in Norway is not only related to folk tales and mythology but also serves as a strong national symbol representing Norwegian nature and the people’s traditions.

The statue represents a monumental troll and embodies this iconic figure. It generally follows the traditional depiction of trolls: a huge, rustic figure with a large nose and ears, and a strong, sturdy body. This mythical figure symbolizes the power of nature and the mysterious forces hidden in the mountains and can be interpreted as a connection to the deeper layers of Norwegian folk tales and culture.